Reading up on lip balm ingredients on the internet, I found
a number of articles telling me that I absolutely shouldn’t buy a lip balm containing
salicylic acid. Confusingly, other articles told me that this is a good
ingredient for removing flaking skin more rapidly. So what’s the story?
Salicylic acid is a common ingredient in acne treatments as
it has a peeling effect: it works as a keratolytic to accelerate the shedding
of the skin’s outer layer. This also explains why it’s a common wart treatment.
It’s highly penetrative as it is soluble in lipids, which might help absorption
of other ingredients. It also may ease the pain associated with cracked lips,
as it is a mild analgesic (pain-killer). Indeed, the body converts aspirin to
salicylic acid.
BUT
Dryness and peeling are commonly listed side-effects of acne
treatments containing salicylic acid. Is more peeling what my already lips need?
Typically, the flaking I get is so severe it’s possible to cut off the crusty
skin with nail scissors anyway.
Furthermore, I’m not sure whether the concentration of
salicylic acid in lip balms would be sufficient for it to demonstrate its
peeling qualities. Standard bazuka gel contains 12% salicylic acid, whilst
extra-strength contains 26%. However, over the counter cosmetics may only
contain 2% salicylic acid. The Clearasil website recommends that acne sufferers
with dry skin should ‘look for 0.5% or 1% Salicylic Acid instead of 2%’. This implies
that salicylic acid may not be great for dry lips.
The bottom line: It’s really not clear, but I’m going to try
to find a lip balm that won’t contain salicylic acid and possibly promote
further flaking.
I also found references to phenol, camphor or menthol as possible irritants. Phenol is used in 'deep' chemical peels that are far deeper than the salicylic acid based 'superficial' facial peels. Interestingly, phenol is an ingredient in the carmex formulation sold in the US, but the European union does not permit it to be used in formulations sold in the EU.
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